Some say the world will end in fire
Some say in ice
From what I've tasted of desire
I hold with those who favor fire.
-- Robert Frost
Four times the world of Shuri Castle has ended in fire, most recently with the mighty conflagration that occurred here during World War II. Today's Shuri is the fifth incarnation, and what better color for a fifth-generation phoenix than red?
Historian George Kerr called Shuri "one of the most magnificent castle sites to be found anywhere in the world, for it commands the countryside for miles around and looks toward distant sea horizons on every side." The Chinese influence is apparent, and some of the surviving stonework originates from Okinawa's old ally, parent state and trading partner. This dragon fountain, for example:
Situated on a hill and protected by a stout outer and inner wall, Shuri made an effective fortress when it wasn't being accidentally torched. Say what you will about simple living, but a modern fire extinguisher could have saved the Ryukyuans a good deal of treasure and heartbreak between 1453 and 1709. It wouldn't have done them a lot of good during the Second World War, when the Japanese co-opted the palace for use as their military headquarters. But then, not much would have done the Okinawans good during the Second World War.
This wasn't the first time Americans had used force on Shuri, though it was certainly the worst time. Commodore Matthew Perry bullied his way into the palace in the 1850s, putting Okinawans in a bad spot. That's a post for another day, though (and what we in the business of typing our thoughts call "foreshadowing.")
Nowadays, the castle is a place families can while away entire days. If you're interested in historical artifacts (old technology, royal regalia, various forms of art), you can find them here. You can also stroll through the royal gardens, roam the walls marveling at the architecture, or just take in the view:
Shuri survived as the seat of Ryukyuan government for hundreds of years. Even the parts of it that died survived in a way, preserved beneath the new castle site as rubble:
Not quite ashes, but modern Shuri rose from them anyway.
[this is good] Hi,
I really like your blog and the way your posts tell a story and at the same time gives lots of facts about culture, history and more. And I wish I knew more poetry, so I could open some posts with relevant poems -- very cool :)
I just started a Vox blog myself, which will be mostly about traveling and I am exploring other travel blogs for inspiration and to build a travel related neighborhood.
Posted by: Susi | 01/02/2007 at 05:54 AM
I recently came across your blog and have been reading along. I think I will leave my first comment. I don’t know what to say except that I have enjoyed reading. Nice blog. I will keep visiting this blog very often.
Lots in Miramar, Puntarenas Costa Rica
Posted by: James | 07/16/2010 at 10:31 AM